How the Victorians looked after Rochester Cathedral, 1825-1894

A précis of an address to the Friends of Rochester Cathedral Annual Festival, held on 15 June 1974. Extract from The Friends of Rochester Cathedral Annual Report for 1975.

The full text of this address, and the accompanying sources of reference, can be consulted either in The Cathedral Library or in Rochester Reference Library.

Since their inauguration in 1935, the Friends of Rochester Cathedral have made grants totalling £37,418 towards "the preservation and upkeep of the fabric", and "the cathedral church as it stands today is an interesting epitome of English architecture from early Norman to the present century the latter represented by restoration work". Rochester Cathedral restoration has a long history. Associations such as The Friends did not exist in the nineteenth century, but fortunately Victorian prosperity existed alongside a sincere and deep concern with the demands of Christianity.

Rochester Cathedral experienced four busy periods of restoration during the nineteenth century:

  1. 1825-C. 1830.

  2. The 1840's.

  3. The 1870's.

  4. 1888-1894.

The architect in charge of the 1825-30 restoration was Lewis Nockalls Cottingham (1787-1847). Although repaired only recently c. 1811 the Choir and transept roofs were both unsafe in the 1820's and "eaten up with dry-rot". Part of the south wall between the main transept and the Chapter Room was dangerously out of perpendicular. The central tower, consisting to a great extent of rubble, was incapable of supporting the spire. Between January 1825 and the end of 1830 the following roofs were repaired -the Choir, the lower cross aisle, St. William's Chapel, St. Edmund's Chapel, and St. Mary's Chapel. The old spire was removed and the tower was repaired and raised. Many windows were re-opened and restored, including the east windows of the crypt. The beautiful doorway of the Chapter Room was restored.

Mr. Cottingham's restorations attracted both praise and criticism. On 30 November 1827 the Dean and Chapter voted him an honorarium of f100, "as a token of their appreciation of the ability and zeal that he had shown". The fact that the Victorians observed a spire-less cathedral attracted adverse comment: "The tower, seen near or distant, nowhere looks well. It is neither massive nor light; neither ornamented nor plain." (1843.) Or "The tower ... conveys none of those feelings of grandeur and solemnity which are generally felt at the approaches to most other cathedrals. It resembles, (1862) indeed, rather a goodly-sized parish church.

The Dean and Chapter had only limited funds from which to maintain the cathedral fabric and establish-ment. The gross annual income of the Dean and Chapter in 1834 was returned to Parliament as £7,178, which after deducting yearly payments of 62,072 left a net income of £5,106. Expenditure on repairs to the Cathedral between 1827 and 1834 had exceeded £14,000.

The 1840's witnessed important renovations to the interior of Rochester Cathedral. Completion of repairs to St. Nicholas Church allowed the Cathedral to be closed immediately after Easter in 1840. The removal of the pulpit in the Choir at the end of April revealed "a curious fresco painting ... on the stone wall be-hind". Mr. Cottingham in 1840 restored the nave, and designed for a renovated Choir "a new richly carved pulpit, bishop's throne and rails before the altar." Mr. Gil enlarged the organ to dr ropesos a mister, from Cambridge. Early in December 1840 the "talented professor" presided at the cathedral organ before "a select party of ladies and gentlemen".

One year later in December 1841 Professor Walmis-ley returned to Rochester Cathedral to adjudicate in a competition "for the situation of organist", rendered "vacant by the demise of Mr. Ralph Banks", , who had been organist since 1791. According to The Times, "after a rigid contest before a very crowded audience, Mr. Hopkins of Westminster Abbey ... was adjudged the successful competitor." He, like his predecessor, was to occupy the position of organist of Rochester Cathedral for more than fifty years.

The closure of the Cathedral for further repairs during August 1845 prompted A ChURcHman to address the following question to the Dean and Chapter through the correspondence columns of The Times, on 16 September 1845: "Sir, Will some of the dignitaries of Rochester Cathedral have the goodness to inform the public when divine service will be again performed there on Sundays?"

This letter succeeded in ferreting out certain information as to what was going on in the Cathedral, from a member of the general public. "Sir, Perhaps 'A Churchman' has no intimate knowledge of the nature of the works now in progress . . .. Possibly the letter was intended for that purpose. If so, he may learn the following from one who has lately been staying at Rochester, and has visited the Cathedral. The roof of the nave has been stained, and the side aisles have been newly roofed.... The nave and western transept are also being paved with stone; the old red tiles, which were so great a dis. figurement, having been taken up. The Choir, too, ... is undergoing great improvements.... The Dean and Chapter, far from laying themselves open to censure, are entitled to great credit for the im-made he this hercient on heating, and have hitherto Two great periods of restoration were brought to a close when in 1848 a new font was installed in the nave, followed by the restoration of the Lady Chapel in 1852 at the expense of Mrs. Griffith. Apart from financial assistance from Canon and Mrs. Griffith, the Dean and Chapter found by far the greater part of the money needed for the resporation of Rochester Cathedral, for which they deserved great praise. 'They were praised also in 1858 for agreeing unanimously to a proposal from the Mayor of Rochester, "for the establishment of a Sunday evening service in the nave similar to that which has been attended with such happy results at Westminster Abbey", when "various clergymen of eminence will be invited to preach the sermons.

Generally speaking there was little activity on the restoration front during the 1850's and 1860's, but a resting fabric was a deteriorating fabric, which became all too clear when further major restorations in the 1870's were entrusted to the more eminently qualified Professor Sir George Gilbert Scott (1811-1878). The following adverse reports on the state of Rochester Cathedral appeared in The Times:

"Some portions of the exterior of the building are at present in a lamentable condition- the ancient stone work being patched by brick" (10 July 1871).

"There are traces of long neglect, ... [and] barbarous patching and blocking up" (17 December 1872).

The necessity for urgent action by the Dean and Chapter appeared in a longer report on 12 June 1875: "Restoration . .. was not begun before it was wanted. ... In 1826 a partial attempt at restoration was made in the south-eastern transept, which had then become really dangerous, and in the central tower, but beyond these not very successful efforts, the building has come down to our time partly in a sad state of decay, and partly in a state of disfigurement from ill-advised repairs. Where the architectural stonework has perished either ordinary brick has been employed or stone work of a very mixed character.

All the roofs, too, have been lowered and, indeed, the general features of the architecture largely destroyed. Such was the state of things in 1871, when the Dean and Chapter took the matter into their own hands, and, so far as the limited amount of funds at their command would permit them, set earnestly to work on those parts which called most loudly for reparation." Restoration work on Rochester Cathedral was extensive over the four years from July 1871 to the re-opening of the Choir on Friday, 11 June, 1875.

Professor Sir George Gilbert Scott came to the Cathedral's assistance towards the end of a long and distinguished career as an architect. It was announced on 10 July 1871:

"The restoration will be affected in sections, the first part to be effected being the replacing of the clerestory windows in the nave. Services will then be held in the nave, while work ... proceeds in the choir and chancel. At the east end of the Cathedral the ancient windows will be restored. . .. Mr. White of Vauxhall-bridge Road, London, will be the builder who will carry out Mr. [from 1872 Sir] Scott's designs."

At the end of August 1871 it was ascertained that the foundations were quite secure, earth having been removed around the east end of the building, whereupon scaffolding was erected "at the east end for the restoration of that part of the edifice, which is now in a lamentable state; much of the stonework is broken or decayed and in many places, at some former time, the stonework was patched in the most hideous manner" Ancient windows had been blocked up with stone, "and in other cases former 'restorations'-if such a word can be used in connection with the work-consisted of making windows, etc., not consistent with the original character of the building."

During the second half of 1871 the clerestory of the nave and the masonry of the south and north transepts were repaired. Roof levels were raised on the authority of old prints. By 17 January 1872 "the venerable Nave", was "being prepared for Divine service" and with gas having "been laid on for the first time, . . the building will be brilliantly lighted by many hundred jets." The completion of work in the nave allowed the choir to be closed for interior restoration, lasting initially only "for some months" and in reality for almost 32 years.

Restoration to the exterior of the east end of the Cathedral was almost completed by December 1872, "but the new stained glass windows have yet to be inserted." Exterior restoration now shifted to the north transept. During 1873 the internal restoration of the choir continued, "the nave being used for services", along with extensive external restoration of the great north-east transept, "including a new roof, some new windows, the restoration of a large part of the masonry, and the construction of a doorway and massive oak door in place of the ruinous entry formerly existing." The Times of 1 January 1874 could report that "The exterior to the Cathedral now presents a very different aspect from what it did two or three years back, but the west front and other parts still need restoration."

1874 saw the final depletion of the limited financial resources of the Dean and Chapter. The prolonged restoration work of the 1870's simply caused the money to run out. The Times made reference on I January 1874 to "the funds having been expended" and already in 1873 the Bishop had spoken "very earnestly and seriously on the subject" of financial support for the Dean and Chapter, , "alluding to the number of people within the diocese in a position to carry on the work to the end if they were so disposed"

During June 1874 it was publicly announced that the Dean and Chapter had spent over £10,000 on the restoration work of the 1870's. Dr. Griffith, a former Canon, and Mrs. Griffith had donated f3,000 towards restoring the interior fittings of the choir. Professor Sir George Gilbert Scott was of the opinion that at least £17,000 were needed for urgent repairs and renovation.

"Here the work must stop unless the public will contribute funds, those at the disposal of the Dean and Chapter being exhausted. .. To provide means to carry on this work, the Cathedral Body are now asking for aid from the clergy and laity of the diocese and from the general public.

A month later, during July 1874, a national appeal was launched for the "RESTORATION OF ROCHESTER CATHEDRAL.- The Dean and Chapter of Rochester are compelled to Appeal to the public for Assistance in the Restoration of their ancient Cathedral. They have expended more than £10,000 on the restoration of .. the choir and the north transept. At least £ 17,000 more will be required for the completion of the entire work. ... It is proposed to divide it into sections, and to proceed with these in the order of their urgency, as the necessary funds are obtained:

1. Screen, Organ and Lighting of Choir. 2,300

2. External Repairs of S.W. Transept. 2,000

3. Internal Restoration of Western Transepts. 1,200

4. Cleaning and Repairing the Choir.

5. High Pitched Roof to Eastern Parts. 2,200

6. Restoration of Choir Aisles. 2,000

7. Repairs of Nave Aisles, etc. 1,200

4,700

The available resources of the Chapter are ex-hausted.

Subscriptions and donations flowed in. Those already received or promised up to 17 July 1874 included the following:

Anonymous

The Archbishop of Canterbury 30

100

The Earl of Darnley.

250

J. L. Edwards Esq., The Mayor of Rochester

20

Alderman J. R. Foord, J.P.

50

The Rt. Hon. W. E. Gladstone, M.P.

10

The Archdeacon, the Venerable Grant

100

The Rev. Canon Hamilton

250

The Bishop of Rochester

The Dean of Rochester

250

525

The Earl of Dartmouth

250

etc., etc., plus £5 19s. 4d. from the Prittlewell Church Offertory.

A liberal response to the public appeal enabled the work of restoring Rochester Cathedral to continue, so that by the end of the first week of August, "the Cathedral Body have now entered upon a fresh part of the work--the restoring of the exterior of the great south transept." The feverish restoration of the 1870's involved the nave, the east end of the Cathedral, the exterior of the north side of the presbytery, the choir and of the two northern transepts, the south transept and the choir. £23,300 were spent on restoring Rochester Cathedral between 1871 and 1879.

The interior restoration of the choir was very thorough and far reaching. The ancient screen separating it from the nave was restored. The floor was paved with "tiles of handsome colouring". The walls were adorned with shields, depicting the crests and arms of all the Bishops of Rochester, from Ralph de Turbin, who held the see in 1114, down to Bishop Claughton, the Bishop of the day. Lord Darnley donated a new episcopal throne, "richly draped at the back". The old Bishop's throne was sent to St. Albans. Dr. Claughton himself presented the brass lectern in the choir. The old choir pulpit was removed to the nave and was replaced by a new carved oak pulpit. Stained glass was placed in the eastern windows. New stalls for the dean and prebendaries were erected under the organ, along with new stalls for the choir. The organ was divided, "being placed on either side of the entrance to the choir from the nave, thus throwing open the whole length of the building."

A "musical service on a grand scale, the choir being strengthened by members of the choirs of Westminster Abbey and the Temple Church", celebrated the choir's re-opening on Friday, 11 June 1875. Two processions heralded the start of the service at 11 o'clock. The Mayor of the City, the Recorder and most members of the city council formed a civic procession. From the Deanery nearly 80 clergy conducted the Bishop to the west door of the Cathedral. They entered to a processional hymn, played by Mr. J. Hopkins, the Cathedral organist. The Dean read the lessons. The Bishop took as his text for the sermon, "So they sanctified the house of the Lord", from the 17th verse of the 29th chapter of the Second Book of Chronicles. The service terminated with Boyce's Hallelujah Chorus.

Following the service the Mayor and Corporation of Rochester entertained the Bishop and a large number of guests to a luncheon held in the Corn Exchange.

Among the guests were the Earl of Darnley, the Arch-deacon, Canon Miller, General Erskine, the Provost of Oriel, Mr. Martin, M.?., , Professor Sir George Gilbert Scott, and "a number of ladies and gentlemen"

The Times, of 12 June 1875, was of the opinion that "considerable and thorough as is the work that has been already done, much, very much remains", but restoration in the 1880's remained incomplete, particularly to the famous west front of the Cathedral. In 1887 it was reckoned that a further £20,000 was required to complete the work of restoring Rochester Cathedral.

Another distinguished Victorian architect, John Loughborough Pearson (1817-1897), was now called in to advise the Dean and Chapter on the last great restoration of the Victorian period, and it was he who ornamented the choir screen and restored the Norman west front.

Decoration of the choir screen, with a series of statues under canopies, was undertaken as a memorial to Dean Scott. Among the ornamental figures were Bishop Gundulph, Bishop Walter Merton and Bishop John Fisher. The unveiling of the new choir screen, as a memorial to the Very Rev. Dr. Scott, took place on 17 October 1890, at a special service in the nave, attended by the Mayor and Corporation of the City.

In the meantime the Norman west front was being restored, following its underpinning in 1888. A thorough repair was absolutely necessary. In many places the facing was leaving the core. Much of the stonework needed replacing. This final work of restoration occupied several years. The great west doorway was restored, and new doors took the place of the old, but once again the funds of the Dean and Chapter were quickly exhausted and on 27 October 1892 an influential meeting, held in London in the Mansion House, launched a Rochester Cathedral Restoration Fund. The aim of this second appeal was to raise between £10,000 and £15,000

Renewal of the foundations and the entire rebuilding of the upper part of the west front absorbed at least £6,000.

The contractor for this work was Mr. Thompson of Peterborough. Its dedication occasioned immense celebrations on 25 July 1894. The Bishop of Rochester was joined by the Archbishop of Canterbury and the Bishops of Winchester, Southwark and Lincoln.

The Archbishop and Bishops arrived by train at Rochester Common Station, where, shortly after 12 o'clock, they were welcomed by the Dean and Chapter. His Grace and the other prelates were then guests of the Mayor of Rochester, Mr. E. W. Willis, at luncheon in the Guildhall, attended also by the Dean and Chapter, the Lord Lieutenant (Earl Stanhope), the High Sheriff (Mr. Balson), the Admiral Superintendent of Chatham Dockyard (Rear-Admiral Morant), the General commanding the District (Major General Forster), the mayors from all the boroughs in the diocese and the Member of Parliament for the city of Rochester (Lord Cranborne). The Dean wore a handsome cope, presented to him by the merchants of Liverpool, for the dedication service which began at 3 o'clock. A large congregation filled the nave of the Cathedral. The music included a thanksgiving Te Deum, composed by the Cathedral organist, Mr. J. Hopkins. The Dean read a lesson, the Bishop of Rochester conducted the prayers, and the sermon was preached by the Bishop of Lincoln, whose father had been Archdeacon of Rochester. This very memorable day concluded with a "numerously attended" reception given by the Dean and Mrs. Hole, in the grounds of the Deanery.

Between 1827 and 1894 at least £50,000 were spent on the fabric and furnishings of Rochester Cathedral.

Subscriptions, donations and gifts increasingly supplemented the limited financial resources of the Dean and Chapter, particularly in the 1870's and the 1890's.

In 1892 a new font near the west door was provided by subscription as a memorial to Canon Burrows.

"American Dollars" , the proceeds from an American lecturing tour undertaken by Dean Hole, paid for the ,f a series of new vestries along the south side or ine crypt.

The needs of Rochester Cathedral were still "great and pressing" when G. H. Palmer's Cathedral Church of Rochester was published in 1897. Four years pre viously the publication Church Bells reported on the ultimate hope of adding "a spire to the present 'miserable, poor, and mean' central tower.

Mr. Palmer felt that the tower, "especially since it has been dwarfed by the raising of the transept roofs, looks scarcely worthy of a moderately, important parish church, much less of a cathedral", but "When it is found possible to undertake the change, it should be remembered that Rochester is a small cathedral, and that the opposite fault to the present insignificance must also be avoided. The new spire must neither be too lofty nor too elaborate.

John Whyman

The University of Kent at Canterbury, July 1974

 

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